Whether you are getting your pup from a known breeder, a charity or a pet shop, it is really important to check when they were last given worming tablets and/or flea treatments. All reputable breeders and pet shops should ensure the puppy is worm and flea free but you can never be sure – and in case they are not up to date I recommended using Drontal Plus for worms and Frontline for fleas and ticks. Make sure you book your new pet in to see your local vet for a check-up so that they can recommend any further treatment.

Then, you should also stock up on some good quality puppy food.  There is such a wide range of dog food available online that it can be really overwhelming to know which brands are best. Hills and James Wellbeloved are only two of the many excellent dog food brands out there. Key things to look for is that the food is nutritionally balanced for your puppy’s growth and development. Ensure the food is contains all natural ingredients with no added artificial colours, flavours or preservatives and also try to get food with a high meat content.

Other essentials will include a new collar, lead, food and water bowl and bed.  Having everything ready before the puppy arrives will help him/her settle more quickly.  It is important to realise how stressful coming into a new home is for your new puppy. They might be leaving their parents/siblings and now they are meeting new people and entering a new home with unfamiliar surroundings and smells – so the more you can do to ease the transition the better.

Training is hugely important and needs to start from the second you bring the pup into your home. You need to consider toilet training, sleep training (leaving your dog by itself for extended periods), discipline and routine.  There are lots of great books on the market that can help you with teaching your pup; so it is well-worth spending some time reading up on how to look after a puppy and how to settle and train them quickly and effectively.

Address Your Dogs Comfort

First, it is important to realize one of the most common motivations for digging.  Dogs often dig holes as a means of personal climate control.  On hot days a dog may dig himself a cooling well.  His newly dug hole will be a place for him to rest on a surface that is cooler than the rest of the ground.

If your dog’s digging habits seem to be related to heat, it is easy to solve the problem simply by addressing his needs.  By providing a cool, shaded location in the yard, your dog may no longer feel a need to dig.  Many have found that the use of a kiddy pool or other larger tub containing some water may also be of use in this endeavor.  By making the dog’s surroundings “cooler,” you can easily eliminate his need to remove chunks of the yard to relax.

Likewise, dogs will sometimes dig to create a warm space during cold weather.  By digging a small pit in which they can rest, the dog creates a space removed from brisk winds.  Again, it is relatively easy to address the situation.  Providing a warm space, such as a well-insulated doghouse can reduce the dog’s need to dig holes throughout your lawn.

By tending to a dog’s comfort, one can reduce a prime motivator of digging behavior.  Keeping a pet adequately cooled during the summer and sufficiently warm in the winter is one of the most simple, yet effective, means of eliminating digging.

Exercise Your Dog Adequately

Dogs will also dig when they are inadequately exercised or are overly confined.  A dog with excess energy to burn may turn to digging as a means of release.  A dog who feels confined in his yard and yearns to run free will be likewise attracted to the prospect of digging those annoying holes.

This cause for digging can be addressed simply by making sure your dog is adequately exercised.  Regular walks, play opportunities and other exercise outlets will leave your dog better rested—and less inclined to dig.  The value of exercising a dog is immeasurable.  It produces a happier, calmer dog who is more receptive to training and who is likely to be considerably more healthy than his under-exercised brethren.  Thus, exercise should be pursued in all cases with all dogs.  However, it brings with it the additional advantage of decreasing a dog’s interest in digging.

Keep Your Dog Entertained

Digging can also be symptomatic of boredom.  A dog with little to do may find the instinctive behavior of digging holes to be a great way to occupy his time.  The bored dog is more likely to seek solace in the instinctive act of digging holes than is the appropriately engaged pet.

As such, one can combat digging simply by making sure the dog has sufficient alternative sources of entertainment.  As previously mentioned, regular exercise and activity offers hope in reducing digging behavior.  Additionally, the presence of attractive and entertaining toys can provide a dog with other ways to spend his time and can reduce the likelihood that he will dig holes.

Dogs who are simply left alone in a yard with little else to do are, not surprisingly, apt to invent their own diversions.  As digging is an instinctive activity, it is often latched upon as “something to do” for an otherwise bored dog.  By providing more attractive play activities, one can remove this frequent cause of destructive digging behavior.

There are certainly other reasons why dogs dig and there are certainly problem dogs whose digging behavior will not immediately cease simply by following the three rules covered here.  However, most dogs will curtail their destructive digging if their climate is appropriately managed, they are adequately exercised and they are provided with alternative diversions.

Though instinctive, digging is not necessarily inevitable.  By tending to a dog’s needs, one can reduce instances of inappropriate digging.

Any dog can be taught to retrieve objects on command. Some breeds have a natural, genetically driven inclination to fetch, but others do not. So if you’ve been having retrieval problems at home, it’s likely you’ll have to teach your dog to fetch. It helps to provide clear, concise information to your dog about your expectations to take, pick up and, finally, retrieve any object you choose.

Your Patience Will Pay off
When you place the object on the floor and remove your hand, expect your dog to act as if she doesn’t understand what you’re asking. Some dogs do not know they can pick up the object off the floor and hold it if you are not also grasping it. You need to help your dog understand. This is a point in training where your patience will be highly rewarded. Here’s how to get started:

1. Put an object on the ground.
2. Tell your dog, “Take it.”
3. Stand up.
4. Remain calm, relaxed and patient.
5. If your dog stands perplexed, remain quiet and maintain a gaze directly at the object on the ground.
6. Once your dog picks up the object, tell your dog to hold, then give — at which point you take the object.
7. Praise and reward your dog.

If your dog cannot grasp the idea of picking up an object from the floor if you’re not holding one end, for another few days try putting it down and picking it up while allowing your dog to hold on to the item. Then try the above method again.

Once your dog is able to pick the object up off the floor and hold it until you take it from him on the “give” command, you can add a bit of distance to create the actual retrieve. This is where the reliable “sit” and “come” commands come in handy.

Practice the “Carry”
Some dogs seem confused by the requirement to carry an object. In this instance, it’s worth breaking the exercise down into a sequence of small steps.

1. Sit your dog.
2. Have him take an object and hold it.
3. Step backward about 2 feet.
4. Call your dog using the “Come” command.
5. Expect your dog to drop the object and come to you. Don’t get frustrated or angry if your dog drops it.
6. If your dog comes toward you holding the object, instruct your pal to sit.
7. Expect your dog to drop the object; many dogs do.
8. Tell your dog, “Give,” and then take the object from him.
9. Praise and reward your dog when he gets a step right.

If your dog has trouble with the above sequence, keep practicing. She’ll eventually get it with enough time, patience and praise. The effort will pay off for both of you in many future fetch sessions.

Photo: @iStockphoto.com/Elliskaboo

By Tammie Rogers for Exceptional Canine

Tammie Rogers is the author of the 4-H Guide to Dog Training & Dog Tricks. She and her husband, Robert, operate DarnFar Ranch, a professional dog-training facility near
Brownstown, Ill. Rogers instructs service-dog training and livestock herding, and she teaches 4-H dog training classes.

Your biggest consideration when it comes to biking with your dog is safety — yours, your dog’s, and that of people around you.

To ensure your safety, it pays to invest in some sort of attachment that allows you to place the force of your dog’s pulling low on your bike’s center of gravity. If you bike along while holding the dog’s leash in your hands, you are at risk of several problems:

• Your dog can pull the leash out of your hands.
• Your dog can pull you over sideways.
• Your dog can pull on the handlebars and cause you to turn the bike precipitously.

If the dog’s leash is attached to the seat post or the back wheel axle, these problems can be avoided. Some products to look for include the WalkyDog, Springer, Biker Dog, K9 Cruiser, Bike-a-Buddy, and Sunlite bike leashes.

Use a breakaway leash.
Additionally, if your dog is on a normal leash, it can go on the opposite side of an obstacle. If the obstacle is something solid, like a pole or tree, then you might crash; if the obstacle is something living, like a human, it can be disastrous for everyone involved. (A 62-year-old woman in San Jose, Calif., was killed in 2009 when she was knocked over by dogs running on-leash alongside a bicycle.) For that reason, a breakaway leash is recommended. And because the risk of an accident or even just sudden stops and turns is increased, it’s especially important the human bike-rider wears a helmet.

Use a body harness instead of a collar.
For your dog’s safety, the dog should never run with a bike (or even worse, pull) while wearing any sort of neck collar — especially a tightening collar, like a choke chain or martingale. It is extremely dangerous to ride a bike with a dog on a head halter of any sort. Your dog should always wear a body harness. Check frequently to see if the harness is fitting well and not chaffing.

Check your dog’s paws.
If your dog is not very used to running on pavement (or even dirt trails) for long periods, your pal might need some conditioning time to toughen up paw pads. Check frequently.

Know your dog.
Dogs don’t sweat like humans do; they lose heat through panting and through their paws. Long-haired dogs, short-muzzled dogs (like Boxers or Pugs), and short-legged dogs (like Dachshunds, Basset Hounds, or Corgis) are in greater danger of overheating. Be sure to bring lots of water along for both you and your dog. (You can bring a lightweight bowl.)

Dogs that are easily distracted, have little impulse control, or are quickly stimulated by encounters with other fast-moving things (other bikes, other trail-users, birds, squirrels, etc.) are not very good candidates for bike-along trips. Likewise, a dog that responds well to an attention cue (“Watch me” or his own name) and has a good response to “Leave it” is probably your best biking partner.

By Stacy Braslau-Schneck for Exceptional Canine

Photo: @iStockphoto.com/georgeolsson

Stacy Braslau-Schneck is a longtime dog trainer and a professional member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. She works closely with the Humane Society Silicon Valley and is the owner of Stacy’s Wag’N’Train, which offers small group classes and private lessons in San Jose, Calif.

Always alert and extremely intelligent, Australian cattle dogs (ACDs) thrive on doing a job — any job. Their type A personalities need a challenge to keep them from becoming bored. In my years working with these playful pups, I’ve learned a lot about how to ensure any dog doesn’t get bored.

If your dog — no matter the breed — engages in destructive or neurotic behavior (like digging at the couch or chewing on its fur), boredom could be the underlying cause. But even if you don’t have a herd of cattle to move, your active dog will still be one happy helper if you spend as much time as you can directing its energy and putting its dedication to good use. Here, five tips to incorporate into your everyday life to ensure your active dog isn’t bored:

1. Solve puzzles. Make or buy brain teasers. Homemade games, like hiding a treat under a tennis ball in a cupcake tray, are just as challenging as manufactured find-the-kibble mazes.

2. Move it. Take your ACD jogging, train it for agility, or get involved in any energy-burning sport you can share with your best friend.

3. Teach it tricks & reward desired behavior. Train and reward your ACD for putting away its toys, undoing a latch or even sneezing on command. Use your imagination to find ways to continually occupy your dog’s happiest-when-working mind.

4. Turn routine jobs into play. An ACD would love to lend a helping paw when you get your mail or need a kitchen towel. Your dog can’t be bored if it’s participating in (and not just watching) your daily tasks.

5. Take advantage of your dog’s devotion. By nature, ACDs are loyal and super- smart — a great combination for obedience training. And you’d be surprised how a lot of dogs really can excel way beyond basic sit-stay commands.

Many dogs, not just ACDs, are physically built and mentally wired to be busybodies all day long. It’s better to prevent behaviors that are triggered by boredom than it is to correct them. So keep your ACD — or any high-energy dog, for that matter — engaged in a variety of fun-filled activities to take full advantage of its zest for life and its devotion to duty.

and
her husband, Steve, own Hardtack ACDs in McKinney, Texas. Their dogs have been
successful in the show ring, in the stockyard, in agility competitions and on
the family couch.

The golden retriever’s No. 1 goal is to please its family — the trait is simply bred into them. Even so, you shouldn’t take your golden’s kind, friendly nature for granted. Kids should be taught how to interact with their dog, and vice versa, to enhance a lifelong bond.

Get to Know Your New Dog
The golden’s gentle personality is legendary, but even this breed has its bad apples. Make sure you know as much as possible about your dog before you adopt your new family member.

Socialize With Pets and People
Do you already have a golden and plan on bringing children into your family? Socialize your dog at parks and playgrounds to get it accustomed to the noise and fast movements that are made by excited children.

Establish a Pecking Order
Your golden may think young children are littermates. But your dog needs to understand it’s on the bottom of the pecking order, no matter how small the human companion. Conversely, teach even your littlest child to not let your dog push him around.

Understand Boundaries
Goldens are extremely tolerant, but children should respect their pet’s safety zone and not bother it while it’s eating, sleeping or in its crate. Kids should understand that although dogs don’t talk, they communicate to us through doggie language. A wagging tail and bowed stance means “Come play with me.” A warning growl means “Back off.”

Teach Kindness
Your Golden will respond well to upbeat training. Encourage your children to interact with their pet by using positive reinforcement, not harsh words or punishment. And while these beauties possess a glowing golden coat that begs to be petted, children should be taught not to pull hair or stroke their dog too aggressively.

Explain That Love Works Both Ways
Teach your children that love is a two-way street. If they “make nice” to their dog in all interactions, the dog will return their affections tenfold. Golden retrievers are particularly good with kids, which makes the bonding process virtually automatic. With that said, any dog/kid relationship benefits from a little training and a lot of love.

owner
of Plantation Delight Kennel in West Grove, Penn., has been breeding dogs for
more than 20 years. Also a social worker, Sandy often brings her dogs to work
with clients.

Most people who picture a pleasant hour or so with their dog at a coffee shop or sidewalk cafe concentrate on what the dog should not be doing. Don’t eat the food off the table. Don’t jump on the waiter. Don’t jump on passersby. Don’t chase the kids on skateboards, the baby strollers, or other dogs or trucks. Don’t fret about strangers who stare at you, lean toward you, reach toward you or even touch you.

This is a set of skills that requires the command of, basically, “Leave it.” Oh sure, a good “Settle” — or its stricter older cousin, “Down-stay” — is helpful too. But with “Leave it,” even if your dog spends most of the time standing or sniffing a few feet around your table, you’ll have a nice outing at the cafe.

It’s a Zen Thing
In fact, “Leave it” is one of my favorite things to teach. Some people call it “doggy zen” because the dog learns that “to get what you want, you have to give up what you want.”

To train your dog for this, start with a treat in your closed fist. Allow your dog to sniff it or lick at it — but pretend you’re holding some forbidden food like chocolate, and don’t let him have it. Instead, wait patiently until he gives up trying to get it. At the moment he backs away, click your clicker or say “Yes!” and reward him with a different treat from your other hand. Repeat this, and once he is doing it predictably, start saying “Leave it” just before he backs away.

You’re looking for the moment when he gives up trying to get it. That’s when your dog has learned to be “zen” — so you click or say “Yes!” and reward your dog. You can use toys or other distractions instead of food as well, of course.

Practice and Expand
After practicing this a bit, your dog will learn that “Leave it” means backing away from whatever has his interest. You can use this for food on the table, crumbs on the floor, dogs, people and strollers passing by. Teaching a good and generalized “Leave it” will make outdoor dining and almost any public outing more pleasurable — for both you and your dog.

is a longtime dog trainer and a professional member of
the Association of Pet Dog Trainers. She works closely with the Humane Society
Silicon Valley and is the owner of Stacy’s Wag’N’Train, which offers small group
classes and private lessons in San Jose, Calif.

Your dog is never too young to learn how to be a good patient. In fact, the younger, the better. With the right training and socialization, medical exams will be less traumatic for you, your pup and your veterinarian.

Puppy Pediatrics
Control your puppy’s exposure to other animals to protect it against disease, but don’t turn your pet into a canine version of the “bubble boy.” Interactions with other safe domestic pets and people are a good way to socialize your pet when it’s young. And you can take the fear out of encountering new sights and smells by taking your puppy into lots of different buildings where dogs are allowed.

Likewise, take pleasant road trips with your pup so it doesn’t become car- and vet-phobic. A get-to-know vet visit helps your dog associate the nice person in the white coat with praise and treats instead of a source of terror.

Try these tips to help your dog handle the physical exam:

Desensitize its senses. Get your dog accustomed to being touched by patting all over its body, including ears, gums and paws. Make this fun for your dog by rewarding each hand stroke with praise and treats.

Give it the family touch. Ask family members and friends to touch your dog all over so your pal thinks it’s no big deal to be handled by anybody.

Associate touching with play. Gently grab your dog’s collar, say “Gotcha” or “Simon says” and immediately reward with praise and a treat. Gradually extend the length of time you touch or hold any body part.

Practice exam-table time. A washer or dryer isn’t an exam table, but your dog won’t know the difference. Place a slip-retardant mat or towel on your appliance and lift your dog onto it. Start with just a few seconds, then gradually increase the time, supporting your dog to make sure it doesn’t jump off.

The earlier you teach your dog to handle an exam, the better — but at any age, a dog can learn to be a better patient with gentle, progressive and fun training.

is
a certified professional dog trainer (CPDT) and a member of the Association of
Pet Dog Trainers (APDT). He is a senior-level instructor at the Dog Training
Club of Chester County in Exton, Penn.

At Dogs for the Deaf, a nonprofit organization based in Southern Oregon, we train rescue dogs to help people who are facing various challenges. We’ve placed close to 3,500 dogs across the United States, Canada and Puerto Rico since we started 33 years ago.

When our trainers scout for dogs at animal shelters in Washington, Oregon and California, they look primarily for temperament rather than breed. We need dogs that are friendly and confident, because these dogs often have to go into public places.

How Our Dogs Help
We teach our Hearing Dogs to be alert to specific sounds: primarily fire and smoke alarms, the telephone, the oven timer, the alarm clock, the doorbell or door knock, the owner’s name, or a baby crying, if that’s relevant. When the dogs hear these potentially life-saving noises, we teach them to physically alert their owner by gently placing their paws on the person’s knees and then leading them to the sound.

We’ve expanded our program to train other types of dogs. Some work with autistic children, others assist professionals who work with the disabled. Still others serve as companions for people who are struggling with depression or anxiety, or those who are recovering from a stroke.

Before placing a dog in any of these programs, we evaluate its interests, abilities and talents to determine what’s most appropriate. Because just like not every human is cut out to be a plumber or an airplane pilot, not every dog is suited to be a service dog.

Each Time, an Inspiring Story
The whole process is miraculous, and it’s so inspiring because you see these dogs go from being in shelters and possibly headed for euthanasia to possibly saving people’s lives. The dogs are transformed, and the people are transformed. People who are afraid to go out of their homes go out and get jobs and become better parents. And this happens every day, not just once in a lifetime.

One recipient recently wrote to us to say, “You’ve given me my life back.”

How You Can Help
Dogs for the Deaf is a registered nonprofit, and we survive strictly by donations. The people who receive our dogs pay a $50 application fee, and when they’re approved, we ask for a $500 refundable deposit. The recipient will get that money back after being with the dog for one year. We do that to make sure they’re really serious and that they can afford to maintain a dog.

Please visit our website at DogsForTheDeaf.org to learn how you can receive our newsletter or
make a donation.

is president and CEO of Dogs for the Deaf , a nonprofit organization that trains shelter dogs to assist people who have special needs. She has worked with the group for nearly 30 years.

If you don’t believe that dogs understand humans, just watch my bird dog, Kaia, when I pull out the hiking boots and daypack. She waits by the front door, excited, alert, doing her biggest wiggle dance.

In my daypack, I carry our provisions: enough water and a small collapsible bowl, pet-specific snacks (since my raisin/nut trail mix is toxic to dogs), a small amount of duct tape (in case Kaia cuts a pad or I suffer a blister), a trail map and a leash.

Stay Safe
A leash is a must for safety and regulations. We hike in areas that allow dogs, and Kaia only walks off-leash in designated spots. Parking lots are dangerous, so Kaia stays tethered until we reach the trail. Dogs with poor recall or improper social behavior — such as those that jump up, chase or fight — should not hike off-leash.

Understand Your Dog’s Abilities
Kaia is now 11 years old. Although Kaia is in great shape, our routine has changed to better suit her endurance level and to avoid injury. We no longer hike 10 miles or attempt vertical scrambles and bushwhacking, but our energetic strolls in the mountains remain the highlight of my week.

Make Memories
Whether you’re new to hiking or your boots have logged hundreds of miles, consider taking your dog along on the next excursion. Attention to details and a little planning can make for a great hike, and a great hike for wonderful memories. At the end of the day, as your dog basks in the pleasant feeling of exhaustion and succumbs to a deep and restful sleep, she will be reliving every step of the trail — and dreaming of humans in hiking boots.

Photo: @iStockphoto.com/thinair28

Dr. Tracy Dewhirst is a graduate from the University of Tennessee
College of Veterinary Medicine and practices small-animal and equine medicine
in Knoxville, Tenn. She is a long-time columnist for the Knoxville News Sentinel. Dewhirst sits on
the East Tennessee Peer Review Board for the state of Tennessee.